The island of Mykonos

In July of 2023, we did a 7-night cruise from Athens/Piraeus to Ravenna, with stops in Mykonos, Corfu, Dubrovnik, Zadar, and Split. With only one sea day, this was a port-intensive, tiring (but in a good way) itinerary.

This review covers the ports, mostly, with thoughts about the ship and service.

PRE-CRUISE, ATHENS

It was HOT, hovering near and over 100 degrees that summer in Europe. We spent about 24 hours in Athens before embarkation. My husband and I have both claimed responsibility for finding our hotel for the night before, the fabulous niche hotel Athens. It’s in a great location for touring the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum, which were the main items on our list for a short stay. We will certainly return for future stays there, as this hotel delivers terrific, personalized service that begins from the time you make a reservation. There’s a place on the reservation form to let them know your needs (e.g. transfer to cruise port) and they will write you back with information about that. The rooms are lovely. 

The Stork rooftop restaurant and bar has a view of the Acropolis and everything that we ate or drank there was delicious. 10/10!

The best hotel breakfast I have ever had, hands down. Exceptional, warm hospitality from the staff. 

ACROPOLIS

Since our time in Athens was so limited (we had planned a week in Italy post-cruise, and couldn’t really be gone longer than 16 days, we limited ourselves to the essential: the world-class fascinating Acropolis Museum (we did this first as it would be in the heat of the afternoon) and the Acropolis itself in the (slightly cooler) morning. Note to the British Museum: return the Acropolis sculptures, now!!

Did I say it was HOT? We had our reserved tickets for the Acropolis at 8 am, and walked by Red Cross stations and water stations as we hiked up the hill. They had announced that due to extreme heat, they were closing at 11 am. It was HOT but amazing. 

SHIP: We were on the Celebrity Infinity, (Millenium class) a well-maintained but older ship that holds 2,170 (double occupancy). However, we were on a summer cruise and there were many families onboard. We heard that we were about 200 over that 2,170 number.

I had been on Solstice-class ships, and had read enough about Millenium-class ships to expect this to feel smaller. The ship didn’t really feel crowded, but the large family groups could at times make for a loud or rowdy atmosphere. I was especially glad for the covered, adults-only saltwater pool and the relaxation there. 

There is a good article here describing the different classes of Celebrity ships. 

CABIN: We chose an aft inside cabin, and near a set of stairs that led to the Rooftop Terrace. The idea was that instead of having a balcony, we could use the Rooftop Terrace when we wanted to be outside. It worked out fine. The layout of the cabin was good, with plenty of storage, comfortable seating as well as a desk area. 

TIP: Use cruise deck plans website before making final selection of your cabin. Remember to check what is directly above or below your cabin choice. For example, some people are bothered if they are directly underneath the buffet, or directly over a late-night venue. 

DINING: on this cruise, we opted to dine in the (included) Main Dining Room with friends who were also on the cruise, and it was lovely. Check out the expansive views of the water! We had good service, even though our staff was also handling groups of 20 (or even more). I always appreciate having a designated table with the same waiter and assistants. I find that they quickly learn my preferences and I enjoy interacting with them throughout the cruise. 

Buffet/Oceanview Cafe: For a quick and casual breakfast or lunch, we often went to the buffet, and I am a huge fan of the Indian food that Celebrity serves at lunch – also, the menu selections change daily, so it’s entirely possible to return to that day after day and enjoy something different. They make sure to mix that up, so it’s not boring. Of course, if Indian food is not your favorite, there is much, much to choose from.

We also love to eat a light, healthful lunch at the Spa Cafe on the Pool Deck. The selections are fresh, healthy, and light, so that balances out our indulgent evening meals!

The offerings at the Spa Cafe will change daily, giving you a variety of choices. In the mornings you can find healthier choices, muffins and a wide variety of fruit. Here is a sample breakfast menu. This is also where you find fresh juices and healthy smoothies. I always get a green juice here. They will also make custom blends. The smoothies are included with a Premium package. 

Healthy, light food on a cruise? Absolutely! Head to the Spa Cafe!

PORTS: This was a port-intensive itinerary, with only one Sea Day. I learned from this experience that on a seven-day cruise, having two days at sea is almost necessary for a relaxing vacation. 

We did our shore excursions through Celebrity everywhere except our last port, Split, Croatia, which was a very easy port to explore on our own. So here’s a bit about our time in each port:

Mykonos

Sunrise over Mykonos, Greece from the Celebrity Infinity.

This was our first full day onboard. We had traveled from the Western U.S., not without complications, and then pushed ourselves hard in the heat in Athens.  I woke early in the morning after only a few hours of sleep. My body doesn’t obey time changes! I had chosen our interior cabin because it was near the Rooftop Terrace, what I was hoping was a peaceful, quiet deck. 

And so, I sat alone on a comfortable chaise wrapped in a blanket, and watched a lovely sliver of a crescent moon fade, as lights on land twinkled, and the sun eventually began to rise over the island. It was a magical way to enter our first port of call. And, I slept well the rest of the cruise! With all the activity we had that you will read about, how could I not?

We had prepurchased (months in advance, actually) a shore excursion through Celebrity. This was the first excursion we planned, but not because it was our first port. I knew that this was a tender port (where the boat is achored, not docked), and also knew that purchasing our shore excursion through Celebrity would automatically get us in a priority line for a tender shuttle. I suggest that you always note tender ports and consider this as a strategy to avoid waiting in long lines for a ticket to board a tender. Our Celebrity shore excursion was a Captain-Curated: Food on Foot tour that combined walking through the town of Mykonos with a guide who led us to several restaurants where we sampled food like souvlaki or mezes, with commentary on the town’s history. We were led down streets that we would not have found on our own, for sure. This was a good tour, and tasty! The final stop had the best sampling. I don’t think that on our own we could have wandered through town and gotten samples of food.

We definitely explored streets that we would not have found on our own. There was a secret garden that was used as a cinema, just charming.

CORFU

What a gorgeous sail-in into the island of Corfu! Sailing into and out of ports of call is one of the reasons I love cruising - because you see the land from a unique perspective. I have begun the habit of hugging the decks of the ship while sailing in and out for the views and experiences like this photo captured.

Once again we chose a Celebrity Excursion and it took us to a few locations that we would have struggled to get to on our own. This is one of my decision-making principles, and why I may opt for a shore excursion purchased through the cruise ship. When I am on vacation, I love to do preliminary research about a site in order to know what I would like to do, but once we arrive, I don’t love the distracting details of coordinating movements between numerous locations, and a tour can be a great way to be shuttled around, often in comfort. The air-conditioned bus was worth a lot on that hot day in July, too. We had a lovely, brilliant guide that day who was a native of Corfu. She talked for at least three hours about the history of the island, and I was enthralled. She recounted stories from the time of Homer, and also helped us understand the influence of Venetian, French, and British powers over the island. It’s a very special place I would love to return to. Our stops included a boat ride out to inspect some intriguing Sea Caves (Paleokastritsa), time on a sandy beach, and a visit to Corfu Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I regret not trying the kumquat liquor. Next time! Just a lovely, informative and beautiful excursion!

DUBROVNIK: Oh, this place is a wonder! We had chosen a tour to walk the walls of the old city, and I’m pretty sure that although we are ultimately glad to have done that, we didn’t quite know what we were in for. See that walled city? See how high those walls are? Can you imagine the view from there? 

THIS is why cruise ships stop here. It’s amazing! These walls circle the city and were constructed over 500 years, from the 12th to the 17th century. It’s an experience to see the city, the Stradun (main street shown below) and the water from the walls, for sure.

At the time, I was still healing from a broken wrist, and was wearing a brace. I was struggling to get around. It was 100 degrees, the stairs were steep, and the handrails were very hot. Mind you, I had broken my wrist by falling down some stairs. So, this steep climb on stone stairs was unsettling. I know that I was thinking that I wished I were in those kayaks, and that I wanted to return when I was stronger and it was cooler!

There are some amazing places where you can walk through a hole in the wall, go down some steps, and find a very lively bar! We found one after leaving the tour group, and will make that our main activity next time. We watched the kayaks, and people were able to jump – from the bar – into the water for a swim. Magical, I tell you! Next time, we’ll wear our swimsuits for sure.

Of course, Dubrovnik was a major filming site for Game of Thrones, and while walking the walls, you absolutely know that you are in King’s Landing. While we did not opt for a tour specializing in that, they are easy to find. It’s also easy to grab a quick shot of yourself posing with one of the iron thrones in the shops! We heard that if you spend enough money, the store will let you sit on the throne. We didn’t get to that point, ourselves.

ZADAR

This was also a replacement port. We were supposed to go to Kotor, Montenegro, so that is still on my to-do list.

Prior to breaking my wrist (exactly six weeks before our cruise began – yup, I was calculating that even as we drove to the ER), I had thought it would be a great idea by this point in the cruise to plan an active hike. I’m not sure why I didn’t reckon the level of activity we would have already logged, but, ok! I had found a hiking excursion to Paklenica National Park, which, again, I knew we could not get to easily on our own. Somehow I didn’t pay much attention to the “strenuous” rating, and somehow I missed all the information about how this was a rock-climbing paradise, and envisioned a lush, green forest. Well. 

While there were some trees, especially at the lower elevations, we ended up hiking on ancient, steep, worn-to-a-treacherous-and-death-defying-slickness limestone. This is my game face. 

We decided we had to make it to the top! Whew! Of course going DOWN was in some ways even more dangerous. Sliding on slick limestone in a remote national park – what a way to balance the day when you live on a cruise ship.

After our visit there (Zadar was a change in itinerary from our original purchase), I was glad that I stared down death by limestone, but wasn’t sure I needed to return to Zadar. Now after reading this list of reasons to go, I am wondering whether I should return and find a beach. I would also LOVE to learn more about glass blowing. There are in fact some good reasons to return.

LIFE ON SHIP

Before mentioning our last day in Split, Croatia I will want to give some love to the crew and staff on Celebrity Infinity. The entertainers are brilliant, the dining staff are personable and attentive, and the bartenders are smart and fun. Our room steward was helpful and kept our cabin immaculate. 

ENTERTAINMENT:

The terrific onboard entertainment is a huge part of our experience on a ship. It’s for sure one of the main reasons we choose to cruise. Having entertainment included and available makes cruising a special experience. We love the theater productions and make sure to go every night. You can grab a cocktail, or even order one there, and enjoy a high-quality show.

My husband always wants to sit in the front row when there is a comedian, increasing the chances that we will get picked on or mocked in some fun way. Celebrity Infinity has a talented crew of singers, dancers, and acrobats/aerialists. I love the way that Celebrity often incorporates aerialists into their theater productions. It’s always terrifying and thrilling to watch! 

One thing that was new to us on this ship was that the cast would do mini-shows of 10-15 minutes in the Atrium, generally in the very early evening. That was a fun diversion with a cocktail before dinner, and you could observe the acrobats from a close vantage point. 

We enjoyed live music in the bars also. The Abba Sing-a-Long one night in the Atrium was brilliant!

We can’t imagine missing out on the great theater shows, and we also look for live music happening in the bars and lounges. With such a port-intensive itinerary, I didn’t have as much of that as I would have liked. Still, I loved every port!

BEVERAGES ARE IMPORTANT!

We enjoy a specialty coffee from Cafe Al Bacio on the regular. While sometimes one of us will run down to pick up one or two to bring back to the room, we try to also work in sitting down in the Cafe. The service is just lovely. And I am a big fan of afternoon tea. While Celebrity doesn’t serve afternoon tea in the dining room as some cruise lines do, (at times you can find buffet offerings in the afternoon) I think that Cafe Al Bacio does a lovely tea service, and the pastry choices are great. 

The Martini Bar, with its frozen counter to keep your drink chilled, is a Celebrity favorite. They make real martinis, and then there is an extensive menu with all kinds of fun drinks served in martini glasses. I finally got my nerve up to try the Lychee Martini, and it is good! While this bar unfortunately doesn’t have as much space as it does on Solstice or Edge class ship, it is a gathering spot near the staircase open to the Atrium. Abba Sing-a-Long, anyone?? We saw that there were mixology classes that you could sign up for here, and people were enjoying getting their bartending skills on. 

The Martini Bar has a great reputation for fun and showmanship. Watch for the bartenders to do their “flair” moves, pouring a dozen martinis at a time while standing on the bar. When someone orders a martini flight, you will get a show! Also, note that most martinis here are priced at the Premium package rate, so if you think you will be a regular visitor, that package might be your best choice. Drink packages are evidently a controversial topic, but we are solidly in the “heck, yes, it’s worth it” camp. We like the ease of ordering, and feel that since we buy the package at the time of booking, we get our money’s worth. Of course, if you don’t drink alcohol, that would likely make no sense. 

There are other bars on the ship; the Constellation Lounge has a fun menu of Zodiac-inspired drinks, and the Rendezvous Lounge has some smart and spirited bartenders who love to memorize your favorite drinks. 

Each cruise line organizes beverage packages differently. Here is some information specific to Celebrity from the cruise line. Here is a post from The Points Guy with additional perspective.

TIP: Buying a beverage package when you book generally involves significant savings, and I reckon that is up to 40 or 50%. We never (absolutely never) wait to purchase onboard, as we have always calculated that as far more expensive.

The drink of the summer was an Aperol Spritz, and we enjoyed many of these, whether poolside or elsewhere on deck. 

NIGGLE: When we booked this cruise, we had the option between the classic OR the premium package, and we chose the premium package (the martinis, for example, would not be included in the classic and we would be paying extra on board). Celebrity currently (Jan 2024) is no longer letting you select the premium beverage package at the time of booking unless you are in The Retreat. Please, please, fix this Celebrity. Many of us don’t want to have to come back and pay for upgrades later. 

SPLIT, CROATIA

On the last day before disembarking the ship in Ravenna, Italy, we visited Split. We chose to do a self-guided tour, with the help of Rick Steves pages from his book on Croatia and Slovenia. That was a great choice for us, as after all our activity, we could enjoy a day when we just wandered and wondered. Split is a great place to do this.

It’s very easy to walk from where the ship is docked to the town, (and I should note that in other ports Celebrity provided free shuttles to town – well done!!). The Roman Emperor Diocletian built his retirement palace here, and spent the last ten years of his life in a waterfront palace. It’s no longer waterfront, but instead there is a lovely promenade with restaurants and other places to enjoy the view. 

Celebrity Infinity seen from the Promenade in Split, Croatia.

Diocletian’s palace was ultimately abandoned, and then centuries later people just set up their homes inside. Squatters with discriminating taste, maybe? In any case, today you can explore the remains of a 4th-century palace now filled with shops, restaurants, and apartments – home to 3,000 people. Strolling through the streets of the palace and town is enough to transport you back in time. There are some cosplay Roman soldiers, too, though we didn’t want to do a photo shoot. 

Just outside the Golden Gate, you will a LARGE statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović. The angle in the photo here makes his head disappear, but he has one. I have read that many people think he is a wizard. Maybe he is magical: rubbing the big toe of the bishop (he is a national hero for defending Croatian language and culture) is said to bring you what you wish for. How could I resist?

Although I wanted to, we ran out of steam and thus did not visit The Meštrović Gallery, dedicated to Croatia’s most famous sculptor, who spent most of his adult life living abroad in exile due to his opposition to communism. He may be best known in the United States for his sculptures in Grant Park in Chicago.  I will make a visit to the museum honoring his work the next time I am in Split!

So far, I need to return to Dubrovnik and swim from a hole in the wall, learn about glass blowing in Zadar, and visit the Meštrović museum in Split. I’m sure there is even more that I can do when I return.

We ended this cruise in Ravenna, Italy, where Celebrity sold a very reasonable ($10 pp) transfer to the train station. If you end or begin a cruise in Ravenna, (it may be getting busier, as Venice severely limits cruise ships – and it’s their right to do so!) I recommend that you set aside 2-3 hours in order to see the famous mosaics. We had an excellent guide on this tour and were thrilled to see the UNESCO Heritage Sites there.

Rating of cruise: We chose this cruise for the itinerary, and it did not disappoint. Even with TWO port changes, (announced months before we cruised) we were captivated at every port with experiences of immense value. We could have used one more sea day/one less port of call, but then I would have to decide which to skip, and that’s not fair!

The ship itself feels very manageable, and while it doesn’t have the bells and whistles or glitz of newer ships, it is well cared for, offers a variety of food and entertainment, and is a good value. I would cruise on the Celebrity Infinity again. It currently (Jan 2024) is dedicated to Greece and Turkey with mostly round trips cruising from Athens, and there are many fabulous ports of call to visit. 

Mussel fishing near Zadar, Croatia

TIP: Newer ships are almost always more expensive. The older ships will get you out to sea for less money, while you plan your trips on the newer ones. Don’t be afraid to select an older ship, especially for a meaningful itinerary that will make a memorable cruise experience.